Winemakers galore at this year's Taste of Vail

Lance Hanson is a dangerous host. Congenial, excitable, hospitable — he’s single handedly waging a war against empty cups everywhere. He chased a wild hare eight years ago, and the crazy farmer-winemaker-distiller produces what might very well be the best wine in Colorado, and certainly the best gin and vodka. He’s pouring his quaffs at Taste of Vail, where he’ll be in very good company.

“We encourage people to drink early and often,” he said in February.

Really, it would be rude not to take his advice.

Lance and his wife, Anna, have gone about growing grapes and creating wines in their own way. Had they listened to what people were saying, they would have learned what they were doing was impossible. Grow pinot noir in Colorado? Don’t waste your time. Sell wines at farmers’ markets? Heavens, that diminishes the brand.

But it’s working. The estate winery is beyond organic; it’s biodynamic. And instead of relying strictly on grape harvests, the Hansons created Peak Spirits to diversify. They make brandies, grappa, vodka and gin with a bevy of fruit options. Apples, pears, cherries and peaches, in addition to the mighty grape, are grown within a 15-mile radius of the vineyard. What happens in the distillery is a marvel. Don’t think gin made of apples sounds right? It only takes one sip to be converted. The Cap Rock gin (named for the water source) tastes of roses and juniper. It fills up the mouth with a sexy swagger. It could charm the snootiest maitre d, or the toughest street baller. It’s a gin to be reckoned with.

The wines are adventurous blends, drawing from the pinot noir, pinot meunier, chardonnay, riesling, foch, vignoles and cabernet franc grapes the Hansons grow. Look especially for the M&N pinot noir/pinot meunier blend.

Luckily for Taste of Vail imbibers, Lance Hanson is one of many winemakers who will be pouring their own creations for the crowd. Flummoxed over the embarrassment of riches? Local vino purveyors weighed in with some tasting advice:

Capiaux Cellars

“Sean Capiaux is a really good guy,” said Avon Liquor’s Kevin Lawrence. “He balances traditional elegant Burgundy with modern styling.” Pollyanna Forster of Eat! Drink! also loves Capiaux’s wines. “In my mind he’s one of the top five pinot producers in the U.S.,” she said. “They’re elegant, layered and interesting. He’s really an energetic part of the winemaking scene.”

Grgich Hills

“Grgich Hills is celebrating their 50th anniversary, and there’s something to be said for that,” said Mickey Werner, owner of Alpine Wine and Spirits. “Miljenko Grgich is hands down the dean emeritus of Napa winemaking. He’s really known for his whites. He’s a master blender and takes what the grapes give him.” He’s recently passed the torch to his daughter, Violet.

Champagne Nicholas Feuillatte

“Nicholas Feuillatte is one of the best values for true French Champagne,” Lawrence said. “It captures what a Champagne should be, but has modernity, too. There’s power without weight.”

Margerum Wine Company

“I love Doug Margerum,” Werner said. “He’s a ‘wreck on tour.’ He’s got the smallest bonded winery in the U.S. and specializes in Rhone varieties from some of the best vineyards in California. Plus, he’s a character and a half.”

Dr. Loosen

“Ernst Loosen is one of the most prolific winemakers in all of Germany,” Forster said. “He made Riesling accessible. And he’s brought to the U.S. a nice bone-dry style that’s aromatic.” Loosen is teaching a Riesling seminar on Saturday.

Napa Wine Company

“Napa Wine Company makes great organic wines, and they’re readily available,” Lawrence said.

Tofanelli Family Vineyard

“Vince Tofanelli calls himself a third generation Napkin — a Napa farmer,” said Clay Williams of Alpine Wine and Spirits. “First and foremost he’s a farmer.” He’s one of the few farmers to grow and bottle charbono, a thick-skinned Piedmont grape.

Williams Selyem

“Williams Selyem distributes 90 percent of its wines on a mailing list,” Werner said. “The rest goes to restaurants. It’s started with a small cult following ... The winemaker Bob Cabral he’s ... odd? And amazing. He was just named artisan winemaker of the year in Wine and Spirits Magazine, and one of the top pinot producers in Wine Spectator. His wines are really special.”

Schramsberg

“If I can’t drink French Champagne, then it’s Schramsberg,” Lawrence said. “The brut rosé — ah, the stuff is so good.”

Schweiger Vineyards

“Fred Schweiger bought the property in the ’70s, and decided to build a winery during the last major recession to keep his employees on staff,” Werner said. “He makes an amazing cabernet-lovers’ merlot. That lower peak of Spring Mountain sees lots of warm, sunny days.”

Van Duzer

“The owners are really special people,” said Chris Irving of Eat! Drink! “They own a home in Vail, and are here a lot.” The Willamette Valley wines are crisp and clean.

Aurum Wines

“It’s hard to get a winery on the other side of the equator because the crush is going on over there,” Werner said. “Aurum Wines is located in New Zealand, so it’s great that they’re coming. They’ve got really good pinot noir and pinot gris.”

Robert Foley Vineyards

“The Foley claret is my personal favorite of the elite California wines,” Lawrence said. “He captures the spirit of California with the elegance of Bordeaux.”

Parallel Napa Valley

“Two ski bums from Park City went to Hollywood, made some money, returned to Park City and started making wines,” Werner said. “They only make cabs. Isn’t it nice that ski bums are doing well?”

As Werner is quick to point out, every single winery is a feather in the collective Taste of Vail hat. A much sought-after event for the wineries, they’re all A-listers. Taste away.

Special Sections Editor Wren Wertin can be reached at wren@vaildaily.com.