Vail Valley Red White & Brew: Tres Ojos a complex Spanish red

2007 Tres Ojos Old Vine Garnacha, $10.49

The Spanish province of Aragon is known for its varied landscapes — the lush river valleys, mountainsides and desert-like areas. In the midst of this diverse terrain is a crumbling, little bridge with three arches called the Tres Ojos or Three Eyes. It’s from this historical site that the 2007 Tres Ojos Old Vine Garnacha derives its name.

The wine is a complex as its land of origin. The nose is light, with lush raspberry, cherry and hints of mocha. However, the body is heavier with strong acidity, which makes it an ideal food wine. Avoid this one as a sipper, making sure there’s something to munch on before uncapping the easy screw top.

On the palate, the deep ruby, medium-bodied Tres Ojos boasts dark, tangy berry flavors with brisk, peppery and some slightly earthy tones. It’s delightful with some heavy, super-smelly cheeses, offering a perfect balance between the creamy and fruity. Also try it with roasted meats, stews or pastas with meat sauces.

Tres Ojos is made at the Bodega San Gregorio, a 2,200-acre wine cooperative founded in 1965 that today has several hundred members. The granache grape, one of the most widely planted red wine grapes in the world, thrives in the hot, dry conditions of Spain and southern France. Planted “en vaso,” the Tres Ojos vines are not irrigated and thus offer very low production levels.

At $10.49, this bottle is an excellent value. It’s even better at Riverwalk Wine and Spirits where the Tres Ojos is currently on sale for $9.49.

You can find this wine at Riverwalk Wine & Spirits in Edwards and Eagle Ranch Wine & Spirits.

Nicole Frey, Daily Correspondent

Wooly Booger Nut Brown Ale, $9.49/six-pack

Grand Lake is a strange place. Or maybe it’s me. But strange things have often happened to me on trips to Colorado’s bigggest, deepest natural lake.

Somebody at Grand Lake really knows how to make beer, though. I’ve had other beer from the Grand Lake Brewing Co., and remember enjoying it quite a lot (although the variety escapes me, probably due to some “screw you, outsider” type of trauma that required strong drink to moderate).

The Wooly Booger Nut Brown — fly fishermen will recognize the name — is another good example of the craft. As you’d expect from a brown ale, there’s plenty of roasty, malty flavor, not much in the way of hoppiness, and almost nothing in the way of carbonation. This is one of the few varieties of beer you can pour straight into the glass with no fear of a foamy flare-up over the top. At first, in fact, I thought my sample had gone flat, but I’d just forgotten that brown ales limit the bubbles.

But a well-built head and delicate lacing down the glass isn’t what a good brown ale’s about. No, what you want from a beer like Wooly Booger is a lot of flavor and hearty body. It’s something that would be a good addition to a beef stew broth, saving a few for enjoyment with said stew, of course. Wooly Booger delivers on the promise of a good brown ale, and does it with a smooth, rich taste. It tastes like an old-school, mahogany-paneled man’s den looks.

Although Grand Lake and the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park are lovely, the place — a lot of Grand County, in fact — is on the creepy side for anything beyond the most basic transactions. This beer is almost worth the trip, though, and I’d recommend it if you do find yourself playing in the area. But having the Grand Lake beers available in local stores saves you a trip into that part of the world, and you can enjoy some of the best of what the top of the Colorado River has to offer with none of the weirdness involved in, say, getting a vehicle towed out of the place.

You can find this beer at Riverwalk Wine & Spirits in Edwards and West Vail Liquor Mart.

Scott N. Miller, Daily Staff Writer

Bouvet Rose Excellence, $17

This sparkling rose from the Loire Valley in France provides an excellent alternative to Champagnes of a similar style that are two or three times the price. The cabernet-franc grape gives the wine more edge and overt fruit than pinot-noir-based rose wines. It’s a lively, elegant wine that is perfect for pairing with food or for a romantic occasion. Serve with salmon, ham, appetizers.

For more information, visit www.kobrandwineandspirits.com.

Michael Dresser, L.A. Times-Washington Post News Service