Vail drink reviews: ‘More hops than a possessed rabbit’

Stone Brewing Co. Arrogant Bastard Ale, $4.99/22 ounces

VAIL, Colorado — This is one of my favorite heavy-hitting beers, for a few reasons.

The logo’s fantastic. Just look at it. I want this logo on my motorcycle helmet

The front of the label boasts, “You’re not worthy.”

The marketing pitch on the back of the bottle fairly drips with arrogance and condescension. “You probably won’t like it,” the label boasts. “It is quite doubtful that you have the taste or sophistication to be able to appreciate an ale of this quality and depth.”

The guys from Stone Brewing actually believe all this, in a good-humored way. At least they’ve been arrogantly good-humored when they’ve come to the annual Big Beers Belgians and Barleywines heavy-brew festival in Vail.

Then there’s the beer itself. It’s almost red as the devil’s cape, there’s an almost-meaty head on the glass if you pour it right, and the aroma — if you can be patient enough to let the beer open up a little bit — fairly reeks of highly-hopped danger.

There’s plenty of hoppiness, but it’s balanced nicely with malt and the rest of the flavors. Make no mistake, though, this has more hops than a possessed rabbit.

The result is a big, bold — dare I say, arrogant — brew that can leave a drinker staring at the glass in a mild state of wonder.

Every bomber is the same: You pour, stare for a minute and take a sip. Even if you’re not worthy, the big-beer lover will almost invariably say: “Damn, that’s good!”

Pay attention, though: This stuff checks in at a heady 7.2 percent alcohol. More than one or two, and trouble’s going to find you. But you’ll have a really good time — at least until the gargoyle on the label smashes you in the face with his mug.

You can find this beer at West Vail Liquor Mart, Alpine Wine & Spirits in West Vail, Avon Liquor, Eagle Ranch Wine & Spirits, Riverwalk Wine & Spirits in Edwards, Pier 13 Liquor in Eagle-Vail and Village Warehouse Wines in Avon.

Scott N. Miller, Business Editor

2008 Ca’ Del Solo Albarino, $15

The once-obscure Spanish grape Albarino is rapidly emerging as one of the best white-wine varietals in California. Few white grapes display as much complexity when young and fresh — and that beats oak aging in many ways. This crisp wine from the alter ego label of Bonny Doon Vineyard in Monterey County, Calif., bursts on the palate with vibrant flavors of orange, lime, sweet pea, pear, herbs and even a dollop of cherry. Enjoy it this year — especially through the spring and summer. It won’t get any better. Serve with: Shellfish, tilapia.

You can find this wine at Eagle Ranch Wine & Spirits.

Michael Dresser, L.A. Times/Washington Post News Service

2007 Rusack Pinot Noir, $23

This is a flat-out spectacular pinot noir from the neighborhood of the movie “Sideways.” You’ll never crave merlot again after experiencing the velvety smoothness and perfect pitch of this medium-bodied but intensely penetrating red wine. There’s an almost electric purity to its black-cherry flavor that just screams “pinot.” This wine, from Santa Ynez Valley in California, captures the style of a $150 French Burgundy but adds an extra measure of California fruit. Wonderful!

Serve with: Pork, veal and grilled tuna.

Visit www.rusack.com for more information.

Michael Dresser, L.A. Times/Washington Post News Service