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Editor's note: Ask Wren is a weekly culinary-advice column that has local chefs answer readers' questions.
Ecclesiastically speaking, there's nothing new under the sun. But if it's easy to get a whole new perspective by just tilting your head to the side, imagine what adding a little egg, flour and olive oil can do to an ingredient that usually shows up the same way again and again.
Dear Wren,
We visited Beaver Creek in August, and I'm so glad we discovered Vin 48 early in our trip. The food was excellent and the service even better. Though I'm sure my husband would prefer the recipe for the braised pork cheeks, I'd like to attempt the fried anchovies that came with the Romaine Salad. I think they'd make a fun appetizer all on their own.
Barbara, Little Rock, Ark.
Dear Barbara,
It's tempting to say Vin 48 was opened by “three local boys who wanted a place of their own,” but they've shown over the past year-plus that they're truly restaurateurs. Chef Charles Hays, wine director Greg Eynon and general manager Collin Baugh have created a high-energy place that's focused on interesting wines and finely prepared rustic American food. The romaine salad is a case in point: There's nothing outlandish about the creamy Caesar-style salad, but Hays makes it his own with the addition of crunchy fried anchovies. The frying process makes the little fishies taste less briny, and of course brings another texture into the mix. The key seems to be starting with the best white anchovies you can find. They should be plump and soft. Locally, eat! in Edwards sells them. White anchovies are pricy but thankfully bear no resemblance to the grayish brown, tinny yuckiness sold in the canned fish aisle at any supermarket.
At the restaurant, Hays batters the white anchovies in egg and flour, then gently pan-fries them in extra virgin olive oil. Let them drain on a rack or paper towels. If serving solo, you might want to brighten things up with a squirt of fresh lemon juice, or simply make it a deconstructed salad without the lettuce and serve a dipping sauce of mayonnaise, Dijon, mustard, lemon juice, garlic and anchovy paste.
My advice is not to tell your guests exactly what they're eating and see if they can figure it out. I'm certain there are lots of anti-anchovists out there who will happily munch on these without batting an eye. Come clean after the apps are done.
— Wren
Ecclesiastically speaking, there's nothing new under the sun. But if it's easy to get a whole new perspective by just tilting your head to the side, imagine what adding a little egg, flour and olive oil can do to an ingredient that usually shows up the same way again and again.
Dear Wren,
We visited Beaver Creek in August, and I'm so glad we discovered Vin 48 early in our trip. The food was excellent and the service even better. Though I'm sure my husband would prefer the recipe for the braised pork cheeks, I'd like to attempt the fried anchovies that came with the Romaine Salad. I think they'd make a fun appetizer all on their own.
Barbara, Little Rock, Ark.
Dear Barbara,
It's tempting to say Vin 48 was opened by “three local boys who wanted a place of their own,” but they've shown over the past year-plus that they're truly restaurateurs. Chef Charles Hays, wine director Greg Eynon and general manager Collin Baugh have created a high-energy place that's focused on interesting wines and finely prepared rustic American food. The romaine salad is a case in point: There's nothing outlandish about the creamy Caesar-style salad, but Hays makes it his own with the addition of crunchy fried anchovies. The frying process makes the little fishies taste less briny, and of course brings another texture into the mix. The key seems to be starting with the best white anchovies you can find. They should be plump and soft. Locally, eat! in Edwards sells them. White anchovies are pricy but thankfully bear no resemblance to the grayish brown, tinny yuckiness sold in the canned fish aisle at any supermarket.
At the restaurant, Hays batters the white anchovies in egg and flour, then gently pan-fries them in extra virgin olive oil. Let them drain on a rack or paper towels. If serving solo, you might want to brighten things up with a squirt of fresh lemon juice, or simply make it a deconstructed salad without the lettuce and serve a dipping sauce of mayonnaise, Dijon, mustard, lemon juice, garlic and anchovy paste.
My advice is not to tell your guests exactly what they're eating and see if they can figure it out. I'm certain there are lots of anti-anchovists out there who will happily munch on these without batting an eye. Come clean after the apps are done.
— Wren
