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VAIL, Colorado — Pity those who know nothing of Costa Rica but the beaches. These people fly into the Alahuela or Liberia airports, rent a car and immediately drive to the beach. After a week or two, they return to the airport, flying home with the vast diversity of Costa Rica lying undiscovered beneath them.
Truly, the beaches of Costa Rica are beautiful, warm-water gems. From the Caribbean coast to the beaches of the Northwest to those in the West and South, Costa Rica offers world-class experiences.
But to not experience the lush beauty and diverse biology of the cloud forests; the cool, sweetness of the cedar forests at mid-elevation; or the “perfect” climate of the 2,000-3,000 foot zone, the best climate in the world according to National Geographic, is to deprive yourself of Costa Rica at its best.
Staying with a friend living in the mountains northwest of the capital provided a glimpse into a climate and economic zone most tourists never experience. Restaurants with incredible views of the central valley dot the cedar-lined roads. Small hotels offer a weekend respite from the congestion of San Jose.
Off the tourist circuit, these areas cover enormous swaths at 3,000-5,000 feet. They are the middle slopes of the many mountains and volcanoes surrounding the central valley. Driving to the higher elevations takes you to world of pasture, pines, weekend cabins and sweeping panoramas.
Costa Rica is comprised of climate zones from sea level to over 10,000 feet. With the vast majority of the country being within the middle zones, you get an idea of what is missed by experiencing only the beach. It's like coming to Colorado and knowing only Vail, beautiful as that is.
Our friend takes us to an area around 4,500 feet that suffered a devastating earthquake a year ago. It lies on the Caribbean side of the ridge between two 8,000-foot volcanoes, Poas and Barva. Weather from the Caribbean rises gradually over a broad area and is then funneled between the two volcanoes. Lots of moisture is wrung from the clouds.
On Jan. 8, 2009, the largest earthquake in 150 years struck. Hillsides collapsed, taking roads, trees and houses with them. Steep, densely forested mountainsides filled the valleys with earth and debris. The earthquake and landslides heavily damaged roads and destroyed villages killing dozens of people. Almost constant aftershocks occurred over the following days.
As we drive, the road, though passable, gets worse. Devastation extends over an enormous area. Landslides are everywhere. La Paz Waterfall Gardens was essentially the epicenter.
La Paz Waterfall Gardens is a verdant paradise of trails and high waterfalls. It contains exhibits equivalent to an excellent zoo; a huge aviary, butterfly and hummingbird pavilions, jungle cat enclosures, monkey enclosures, a serpentarium and a dazzling display of Costa Rican frogs.
The rooms in the lodge are uniquely interesting architectural gems. La Paz Waterfall Gardens transforms a piece of gorgeous, lush river and cloud forest into a work of art. Miraculously, damage to the park was limited mostly to some trails and viewing platforms.
Driving home that night in the fog was a bit challenging. Between our friend, thankfully doing the driving, and myself, we could creep along. Yolanda sat in the back, eyes closed, not making a sound, just praying we make it down the winding road.
The town of Turrialba, east of the capital is another gem. Its claim to fame is rafting and kayaking the up to Class V rapids of Río Reventazon and Río Pacuare. At 2,000 feet, it is warmer and more tropical and nestled within a rich, mountainous valley.
The town's namesake, Volcan Turrialba, awakened from its slumber a week before our arrival. It blew a huge cloud miles into the air, covering the upper elevations with a gray shroud.
Costa Rica's only large, pre-conquest archaeological site, Guayabo National Monument, is close by. CATIE, one of the world's foremost tropical agricultural research centers, is just outside of town. Its 2,500 acres of campus, botanical gardens and research orchards contain numerous species of coffees, cacaos, fruits and palms.
And then there is Atenas, with the planet's most perfect climate. Only 20 minutes from the airport, an hour from the coast, it is a world away from the city and the heat and humidity of the beaches. A small ex-pat community has settled there.
Atenas still retains its small-town feel. Small farms and cafetals (coffee farms) abound. Ask a resident what temperatures they have and you'll hear, “65 at night, 75 in the morning and 85 at mid-day. Year-round!”
So, Costa Rica is much more than just their beautiful beaches. In this article and the previous ones, I've only touched on a bit of Costa Rica's diversity. When you go, get off the tourist path. Explore the back roads and discover the hidden gems that lie in wait.
Truly, the beaches of Costa Rica are beautiful, warm-water gems. From the Caribbean coast to the beaches of the Northwest to those in the West and South, Costa Rica offers world-class experiences.
But to not experience the lush beauty and diverse biology of the cloud forests; the cool, sweetness of the cedar forests at mid-elevation; or the “perfect” climate of the 2,000-3,000 foot zone, the best climate in the world according to National Geographic, is to deprive yourself of Costa Rica at its best.
Staying with a friend living in the mountains northwest of the capital provided a glimpse into a climate and economic zone most tourists never experience. Restaurants with incredible views of the central valley dot the cedar-lined roads. Small hotels offer a weekend respite from the congestion of San Jose.
Off the tourist circuit, these areas cover enormous swaths at 3,000-5,000 feet. They are the middle slopes of the many mountains and volcanoes surrounding the central valley. Driving to the higher elevations takes you to world of pasture, pines, weekend cabins and sweeping panoramas.
Costa Rica is comprised of climate zones from sea level to over 10,000 feet. With the vast majority of the country being within the middle zones, you get an idea of what is missed by experiencing only the beach. It's like coming to Colorado and knowing only Vail, beautiful as that is.
Our friend takes us to an area around 4,500 feet that suffered a devastating earthquake a year ago. It lies on the Caribbean side of the ridge between two 8,000-foot volcanoes, Poas and Barva. Weather from the Caribbean rises gradually over a broad area and is then funneled between the two volcanoes. Lots of moisture is wrung from the clouds.
On Jan. 8, 2009, the largest earthquake in 150 years struck. Hillsides collapsed, taking roads, trees and houses with them. Steep, densely forested mountainsides filled the valleys with earth and debris. The earthquake and landslides heavily damaged roads and destroyed villages killing dozens of people. Almost constant aftershocks occurred over the following days.
As we drive, the road, though passable, gets worse. Devastation extends over an enormous area. Landslides are everywhere. La Paz Waterfall Gardens was essentially the epicenter.
La Paz Waterfall Gardens is a verdant paradise of trails and high waterfalls. It contains exhibits equivalent to an excellent zoo; a huge aviary, butterfly and hummingbird pavilions, jungle cat enclosures, monkey enclosures, a serpentarium and a dazzling display of Costa Rican frogs.
The rooms in the lodge are uniquely interesting architectural gems. La Paz Waterfall Gardens transforms a piece of gorgeous, lush river and cloud forest into a work of art. Miraculously, damage to the park was limited mostly to some trails and viewing platforms.
Driving home that night in the fog was a bit challenging. Between our friend, thankfully doing the driving, and myself, we could creep along. Yolanda sat in the back, eyes closed, not making a sound, just praying we make it down the winding road.
The town of Turrialba, east of the capital is another gem. Its claim to fame is rafting and kayaking the up to Class V rapids of Río Reventazon and Río Pacuare. At 2,000 feet, it is warmer and more tropical and nestled within a rich, mountainous valley.
The town's namesake, Volcan Turrialba, awakened from its slumber a week before our arrival. It blew a huge cloud miles into the air, covering the upper elevations with a gray shroud.
Costa Rica's only large, pre-conquest archaeological site, Guayabo National Monument, is close by. CATIE, one of the world's foremost tropical agricultural research centers, is just outside of town. Its 2,500 acres of campus, botanical gardens and research orchards contain numerous species of coffees, cacaos, fruits and palms.
And then there is Atenas, with the planet's most perfect climate. Only 20 minutes from the airport, an hour from the coast, it is a world away from the city and the heat and humidity of the beaches. A small ex-pat community has settled there.
Atenas still retains its small-town feel. Small farms and cafetals (coffee farms) abound. Ask a resident what temperatures they have and you'll hear, “65 at night, 75 in the morning and 85 at mid-day. Year-round!”
So, Costa Rica is much more than just their beautiful beaches. In this article and the previous ones, I've only touched on a bit of Costa Rica's diversity. When you go, get off the tourist path. Explore the back roads and discover the hidden gems that lie in wait.
