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July 27, 2012
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Vail's hiker

1987 was the year of the bear in Vail.

"People were putting salmon steaks on their outdoor barbecue grills and a bear would get them while they were still rare," said Mary Ellen Gilliland. "Bears were climbing onto people's decks and eating trays of appetizers."

Gilliland remembers that summer well. She'd had a slew of friends lined up to hike with her all summer to research the hiking guidebook she was working on at the time. Then everyone backed out.

So Gilliland hiked alone - carrying her daughter's life-guarding whistle around her neck and Swiss cowbells tied to her backpack - on 39 of the 40 hikes, every one except Notch Mountain, which one person agreed to trek with her.

"No one would go," said Gilliland, who's written 16 books, most of them historical books. "Everyone was scared to death of the bears because they were so prevalent."

Maybe it was the bells, maybe it was just luck, but Gilliland never encountered a bear that summer, though she did come face to face with with a pair of snarling Great Pyrenees dogs guarding some sheep in a meadow below Shrine Ridge. The dogs came tearing toward her, barking ferociously, she said.

"My hand was shaking but I blew the whistle and it arrested them for a minute," she remembered. "They stopped and looked confused. I held up my hand, still shaking, pointed at them and said 'you, go back.' They looked at me funny and turned around. That was the scariest thing that happened all summer."

In 1988, Gilliland published "The Vail Hiker," which at the time detailed 40 Eagle County hikes. She penned "The Summit Hiker" first and as she was delivering copies of that book to the long-gone Verbatim Bookstore in Vail, the owner made a recommendation.

"She said, 'Oh, we need a hiking guide for Vail. We have request after request and you should write it.' I thought that would be a lot of fun."

Though at that point Gilliand and her husband were living in Summit County (they're Silverthorne residents) they'd lived in Vail from 1969 to 1973 and had done a few hikes, but since she was busy "having babies" at the time, she hadn't logged many miles.

"So I started out with 40 hikes and I just fell in love with hiking around the Vail Valley," Gilliand said. "It was very different from Summit County, which is more alpine and littered with relics of its gold rush past with little tiny mine camps, resting boilers and extractors and mining equipment. In Vail, the hiking was much more verdant, luxurious in growth. It's 1,000 feet lower, so it's a whole different experience. And the East Vail hikes were just wonderful to discover --the hike to Pitkin Lake, Booth Lake and the hike up to BIghorn Creek. Those were wonderful. Then finally discovering the Holy Cross Wilderness, well that was like dying and going to heaven it's so beautiful."

While Gilliland said hiking has kept her in good shape, she said that was never her main goal.

"Most hikers are like me, I think, and we are there because of the absolute joy of seeing the splendor of nature in an outside setting," she said. "To stand on top of a high mountain pass, to surmount a peak and get up high like that, it lifts you out of yourself. You're not thinking about your credit card balance, or your work worries, you're just lifted right out of yourself and refreshed deep down. I hike for the joy of it."

That's certainly why Edwards resident Evie Rosen-Budd hikes. That and because it keeps her young. The 79-year-old has a well-thumbed copy of "The Vail Hiker" that she refers to as her "bible," a term that's comes up more often than you'd think when talking to avid hikers who use the book. In 2000, when Rosen-Budd moved from Santa Rosa, Calif. to Eagle County, she joined a still-active local hiking group called the Dauntless Dames who subsribe to the motto "an eating group with a hiking problem."

"I was coming from no altitude at all, so the first thing I needed to know was how hard is the hike, where is it, how many miles is it," said Rosen-Budd. "I'm kind of an information freak; when I find out about something I have to resarch it. I like the information that's in the book. It really explains it and you can kind of even picture it, just reading the information ... I've just appreciated it immensely all these years."

This summer, Gilliand released the sixth edition of the book. As with any guidebook, there have been a number of revisions. Over the years hikes have been rerouted and trailheads have moved. In 2001, the book went from 40 to 50 hikes. Gilliand guesses she's sold upwards of 50,000 copies of the book, published by her and her husband Larry's publishing company, Alpenrose Press.

Each summer, "The Vail Hiker" consistently remains on the Bookworm of Edwards top 10 list the Vail Daily publishes each week.

"'The Vail Hiker' is our best-selling title in Bookworm history," said owner Nicole Magistro. More than 'Harry Potter,' 'The Other Boleyn Girl' and E.L. James (author of the "Fifty Shades" Trilogy that's selling gangbusters the last few months). "Year over year it continues to sell, and with the new edition this summer, we are seeing stronger sales than ever before."

Magistro said she's "fairly certain it will be the best selling book of the summer, and it will certainly be in the top five for the year."

While the the strongest sales are, of course, in the summer, it's also a "wonderful guide it also is in the winter months for snowshoe trips and cross country ski routes," Magistro said.

When Magistro was interviewed by Linda Wirtheimer on NPR in 2011, she talked about "The Vail Hiker" along with a few other books.

"Unique titles such as 'The Vail Hiker,' which are only available locally, are part of the reason independent bookstores continue to thrive," Magistro said.


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The VailDaily Updated Jul 27, 2012 01:28PM Published Jul 27, 2012 01:22PM Copyright 2012 The VailDaily. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.