Delicious hospitality at Avon’s Vin 48

The last time I called Vin 48 to make a reservation, the voice on the phone didn’t ask me what time I would like to dine. No, he said, “What time do you like to dine?” It was a microscopic change in a sentence I’ve heard a thousand times before, and yet it made such a difference in how it landed. It’s these sorts of details that Vin 48 specializes in  —  the smallest tweaks with a deft hand that take them from the hospitality industry to true hospitality in every sense of the word.

Moments later I discovered it was Collin Baugh on the line, one of Vin 48’s founders who continues to be there full-time alongside his co-founder, Greg Eynon, Executive Chef Tim McCaw and Sous Chef Ryan Champion. No matter when you wander into the neighborhood wine-bar-turned-essential-dining-staple, there’s always some configuration of the A-Team working, which extends to the veteran bar staff and servers.

With its signature curved bar, high-energy bar area, contemporary main dining room and other more private areas — two yurts, a wine room and an upstairs loft — there are a lot of experiences to be had at Vin. But eventually they all travel through Chef McCaw’s kitchen, and this season’s menu doubles down on the Vin 48 identity: They know who they are, and they’re very good at expressing it.

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Chef McCaw has always been “a foie guy,” so whenever it’s on his menu I’d order it. It’s hard to beat the decadent simplicity of a perfectly prepared delicacy. If you’re having the regular restaurant experience, that means sauteed Hudson Valley foie with squash puree and curried cranberries. But out in the private-dining yurts, it’s foie gras torchon, a labor of love requiring at least seven days of prep, and served with aspic and pumpkin brioche.

“It really is food to be shared, and that’s the thought behind so many dishes.” Chef Tim McCaw, Vin 48

Other fun starters include the grilled harissa-glazed octopus, poached with fennel, lemon and olive oil, and served with charred baba ghanoush, papadums and a harissa coulis.

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“The tomato-harissa coulis has a hint of sweet, a hint of spice,” said McCaw. “Grilling the octopus adds flavor and char, but it’s just so tender.”

Another good starter is the jumbo lump crab cake, which can be a small plate or a large one, depending on your appetite. Either way, the root vegetable hash and lobster chunks bring another level of sweetness.

Whether you’re new to Vin 48 or have been there before, it’s always good to check in with the waitstaff to see what they’re excited about.

“I always think people should order a few small plates or snacks, and then go into an entrée,” said Chef McCaw. “It really is food to be shared, and that’s the thought behind so many dishes.”

While it’s always recommended to try a cut of prime pork from Mountain View Farms, or fresh seafood from the world over, if there’s house-made pasta on the menu it’s an easy choice. Whether it’s filled pastas like cappellacci and agnolotti or dumplings like gnocchi, it’s special.

“As we move forward into busy weekends and holidays, the pasta allows us to employ some additional creativity,” Chef McCaw explains. “The team’s solid, but it’s really important for us to not just be ‘heads down and focused.’ We have to have some fun with it.” It’s wonderful when the solution is “pasta.” Don’t miss Pastry Chef McKenzie Champion’s breads and desserts. While the house-made sorbets and gelatos are a delight, so are the pastries, cakes and other sweet finishes.