EAT: Start and end the night The Rose’s signature cocktails
Special to the Daily
Editor’s note: This story first appeared as a paid feature in EAT magazine, highlighting restaurants across the valley.
It always starts with a cocktail at The Rose, and this night that libation was Daryl Claffey’s Riverwalk Sour, a play on a New York Sour but with Four Roses Bourbon and Claffey’s own Malbec foam on top. The dark spirit and red wine combination are warming on an early winter evening, and brightened by lemon juice and raw simple syrup.
Tucked away in a sweetly lit corner, our table is a noticeable piece of art — the top partitioned by dynamic color blocks with a layer of lacquer that glimmers from the chandeliers above us. Chef-owner Bryan Redniss made the table himself from an old painted fence, and when I ask about the nearby hanging lanterns, he tells me he made them from upside-down garbage tins that he distressed and shot, making holes to let light through.
Redniss was an artist of material before he became an artist of food, and it’s the combination of these talents, paired with contributions from other creatives like Claffey, that breathe life into the heart of The Rose.
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Share an order of hamachi crudo to begin, awakening the palate with citrus, chili oil, scallion oil, soy and puffed rice. Another great starter is the elote Brussels sprouts: a Mexican street corn variation of this bundled leafy green. An intelligent spin on this usually informal food makes us smile, the cotija, lime and creme fraiche wrapping each sprout with the ideal balance of flavor.
The Rose has international taste, a characteristic that continues to come through with the Korean BBQ chicken wings. These are more dry-rub style than coated by messy sauce, but you’ll still want to lick your fingers, wing after wing.
The inspired spirit of this place makes way for new menu items often, but the ramen bowl with miso bone broth and pork belly may never retire from Redniss’ roster. Cut through the soft-boiled egg as you dive into every spoonful, tasting the mouthwatering dish, illuminated by touches of ginger, basil and sriracha.
Another cocktail from Claffey keeps us clinging to the evening. One Foot Out The Door combines rye whiskey and gin for a fun angle on an Old Fashioned, and it’s yet another reminder that when artistic touch comes from the heart, it never gets old.
Starters, Shares & Salads: $7 – $15
Mains: $12 – $19
Cozy and creative modern bistro with a craft cocktail bar
Ramen bowl made with miso bone broth, pork belly, avocado, puffed rice and a soft-boiled egg.
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