December 29, 2016
97 main street | riverwalk Edwards | 970.855.0141 | theroseedwards.com
by John O'Neill
photos by dominique taylor
|There is a special sort of charisma exuding from The Rose restaurant in Edwards, just the type to have you sitting and chatting long after your meal with chef and owner Bryan Redniss over a bottle of mezcal you can only get in Puerto Vallarta.|
This little-known boîte and gem of Riverwalk has seven tables set for two, eight seats at the bar, a couch near the only window and that's all. Its sole marker to foot traffic is an easily-missed gray awning with "The Rose" written in Redniss' handwriting. Inside, the artwork and décor was all hand crafted by Redniss and his wife, Jessica.
Amidst a valley full of restaurants committed to acclaim and popularity, the quiet confidence and industrious nature of The Rose is downright charming.
"This is kind of like going to home to New York for me," Redniss says. "Like you are walking down some alley and there is a little hole-in-the wall restaurant where you get served this and that, and it's the best meal you've ever had."
It is this exact force of creating simple and delicious dishes with alluring presentation that has earned the restaurant an eclectic band of loyalists, each of whom knows full well that the steady heartbeat of The Rose lies back in the kitchen.
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The beet salad perfectly balances the intense spiciness and vibrant flavor of arugula with the sweetness of beets and the crunch of flash-fried shallot. The pork belly is rich and tender yet still decadent in a way that you can realize the light flavor of the dish's pickled ginger crumble and locally-sourced microgreens.
Even the heavier dishes, such as the chicken waffle, have graduated from their stomach-pummeling origin — over a golden milk and field pumpkin waffle, the crispy skin and moist meat of the chicken is enhanced by sage honey butter, hot sauce and pickled apple slaw.
New to the menu for the winter is the braised beef short rib, which adds another protein to the crowd-favorite duck entrée. Both of these achieve huge flavor and substantial portions for the winter season.
Rarely will you find desserts as well done as those created by pastry chef Olivier Campe for The Rose. With incredible diligence and perhaps a little magic, Campe will raise cheesecake, goat cheese and honey, carrot, chocolate and lemon macaroons at 8,000 feet, or turn around a pistachio berry cake with an almond-flour base and raspberry filling.
The drink menu is crafted by Mark Summers and draws its own loud applause from diners and the bar crowd alike with drinks such as "How The West Was Fun," which puts rye whiskey with Cardamaro, lemon, honey and Averna. Or, the recently added Mexican Mistress with Reposado tequila, mezcal, pomegranate and lime.
Go there for the food, which is as local as the crowd. Go there for drinks that are as creative as the art hanging on the walls. Go there for the atmosphere that ties it all together.
Go there. Go there. Go there. •
Starters: $7-$18; Mains: $12-$25
Upscale dining for people with downhome style
The Ramen bowl; avocado fries; The Rose salad