January 3, 2017
141 East Meadow Dr #113 | Solaris | Vail
970.476.5300 | bolvail.com
by Krista Driscoll
photos by charles townsend bessent
|I like the vibe of this place; it's very night-clubby," says Bol executive chef Paula Turner with a sweeping glance at the modern lighting that snakes across the ceiling and the stark, white chairs and tabletops of the Vail Village restaurant.|
The occasional clatter of pins emanates from the handful of bowling lanes on the other side of a row of sheer curtains as Turner explains that she's brand new to the restaurant, having started on Nov. 1. Her resume comprises everything from informal settings to fine dining, but she's quite comfortable in her new digs here at Bol.
"I liked the idea of being in a hip, fun vibe, but still being able to do very upscale food. I've been in a lot of styles of restaurants," she says, ticking off a list of valley dining spots that ends with recent stints at Castle Peak Grille and Larkspur. "This is a combination of the two: It's elevated, casual dining."
“We hand-pick our cows, and all of the beef comes from Eagle County.”
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A month into her new gig, Turner has already overhauled the entire menu, leaving only a scattered handful of pre-tenure items. The single bill of fare is available all day and begins with shareables, including a traditional hot wing-inspired dish with cauliflower coated in blue cheese, tempura fried and drizzled with a buffalo-style hot sauce.
The cruciferous veggie makes a few more appearances on the menu, highlighted by the curried cauliflower with roasted chickpeas, shishito peppers and raisin gastrique tossed in shallot vinaigrette. Turner says it took her years to dial in the precise flavor and texture of the accompanying hummus-style chickpea croutons that melt on the tongue.
"It definitely has a bowling alley food spin on it," Turner says of the new menu, "but everything is taken up to more of a fine-dining presentation. I'd call it thoughtful, detail-driven bar food."
The beef served at Bol — from the Bol burger to the beef Carpaccio in a port reduction to the New York strip and bone-in tomahawk steaks — comes via exclusive contract with Eaton Ranch in Edwards. The cows are born at the small ranch and raised on grass and spent grain from a local brewery.
"We're the only restaurant that they supply all the beef to," Turner says.
Colorado-sourced ingredients also make an appearance in other dishes, such as the Boulder natural crispy half chicken, served with celery root puree and pan-seared beets and Brussels sprouts roasted in duck fat, finished with chicken jus and gremolata.
Turner's favorites include the ham and cheese pizza with a 64-degree egg perched atop it and the country pate melt with cornichon, stone-ground mustard and swirled rye bread.
"It's pretty fantastic," she says. •
Starters are $5-$18, mains are $18-$65
Modern bowling alley with upscale cuisine
Hot cauliflower, Boulder natural crispy half chicken,
Eaton Ranch steaks