Sweetbreads are neither sweet, nor bread. La Tour’s sweetbreads are a revelation. Whereas some sweetbreads, which are thymus glands, have an off-putting texture and flavor, La Tour’s veal version is crispy. Along with sauteed mushrooms, cipollini onion and haricot verts, the dish is topped with a caper brown butter sauce you’ll want to finish with a spoon. Don’t expect Chef/Owner Paul Ferzacca to drop any hints about the sauce’s creation, either.
“That’s a secret recipe. It’s not made the way everyone else makes it, I’ll
tell you that,” he said.
A lemony version of the sauce decorates the Dover Sole, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes that will never leave the menu. With just a hint of caramel and lemon essence, the lightly-flavored sauce doesn’t distract from the delicate flavor of the fish, making it a “perfect match,” Ferzacca said. Splurge and pair it with a glass of 2006 Louis Latour Macon-Lugny Burgundy.
La Tour started the “Harvest Dinner” trend last summer with their Sunday
evening three-course specials ($39) inspired by the day’s Vail Farmer’s
Market finds. At a recent Sunday supper, fried Hama Hama oysters topped baby greens grown in Granby. Angel hair asparagus, a Miller Farms grilled tomato, goat cheese feta and a bing cherry/smoked oyster vinaigrette rounded out the evening’s first-course.
The spontaneous suppers aren’t the only place you’ll find local, seasonal
products. The crab salad, new to La Tour’s summer menu, is flanked by
heirloom tomatoes and topped with avocado vinaigrette. Likewise, the roasted rack of Colorado lamb and red wine braised leg of lamb is served with a melted heirloom tomato and mint compote and a goat cheese potato gratin made with cheese from Longmont’s Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy.
This year, Ferzacca and his wife Lourdes celebrate their 10th anniversary
owning the cozy, Vail eatery. They want their diners to share in their good
fortune, which is why the $39 three-course special will continue all summer long.
122 E. Meadow Dr., Vail