Paper Tiger: the recipe
You will need a 13-inch-wide roll of white parchment paper. (White is less brittle than unbleached brown parchment and cooks up to a lovely color.) Squid ink pasta (pictured) can be found at select Italian groceries.1 pound thick-cut dry pasta, such as rigatoni (squid ink pasta works beautifully)1/4 cup raw pine nuts3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for brushing parchment2 garlic cloves, minced2 large shallots, minced (about 1/4 cup)2 cups thinly sliced radicchio (about 1/2 head)2 cups thinly sliced green kale (about 1/2 bunch)1/2 cup dry white wine11 ounces (1 large log) fresh goat cheese1 tablespoon fresh minced flat-leaf parsley1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest, from 1 lemon1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper4 tablespoons freshly grated ParmesanHeat the oven to 450 degrees. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, until still quite al dente (there will be a layer of white in the center when you bite into it). Drain and set aside.Sprinkle the pine nuts on a cookie sheet and toast in the oven until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Let cool.In a large saute pan, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the kale, radicchio and wine and stir until wilted, about 4 minutes.In a large bowl, combine the goat cheese, kale-radicchio mixture, parsley, lemon zest and black pepper. Gently fold in the pasta until just barely combined and set aside.Cut parchment paper into four (13-by-18-inch) rectangles. Fold each in half crosswise, then unfold the pieces and brush one half (near the center, not the edges) with olive oil. Divide the pasta mixture among the four pieces of paper, mounding it on the oiled half of the paper near the fold. Add 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan and 1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts to the top of each mound.Fold the unoiled half of the parchment over the top of the pasta mixture. Starting at one end, fold down a small (about one-half-by-2-inch triangle) section of the paper and keep folding in increments to seal the edges. Fold until you get to the end, then tuck under the last small fold so that the packet stays secured. Repeat with each packet.Place all four folded packets on a large baking sheet and bake for 11 minutes, until the packets begin to brown around the edges and puff slightly in the middle. Transfer the packets to individual plates and slit open at the table.Serves 4.