Vail Valley wines: Let this red jump out of your glass
VAIL, Colorado Spanish reds have improved by leaps and bounds in the last decade. The older styles are still around, just cleaner and more consistently great. Newer styles, mirroring the New World big fruit and softer tannins, are not just flabby and oaky, but have enough acidity and tannins to keep them interesting. The 2006 Termes, from Bodegas Numanthia, has big New World fruit and Old World structure and depth. From the Toro region in western Spain, this big red is 100 percent Tinta de Toro grape, a particular strain of Tempranillo indigenous to the Toro region. Dark cherry and earth dominate, with a lovely black pepper spice hit, dark oak in moderation, cocoa, graphite, and the perfect amount of sleek tannins and acidity to balance the wine. The 2006 Termes is great now; open it 30 minutes before your meal and let this wine jump out of your glass. A grilled steak, portobello mushrooms and lamb shanks are perfect matches for the Termes. Last year, Moet Hennessy purchased the winery, which until that time was overseen by Jorge Ordonez Imports. By all accounts, this transition should be smooth, Moet Hennessy certainly has the track record to allay fears of Numanthias demise. The grapes come from 30 year old vines, which shows in the backbone and structure of the wine. Aging in French oak barrels for 20 months rounds out the wine, but with only 20 percent of the barrels new, not too much smoky oak creeps into the wine.The 2006 Termes is $30. With its tannins and structure, this big red will age well for up to 10 to 15 years.Jarrett Osborn is the wine buyer for Riverwalk Wine & Spirits in Edwards.