Vail wines: 2007 Box Car Syrah has depth, complexity
VAIL, Colorado -Depth is a fun word to use when discussing wines, but what does it mean? Try the 2007 Box Car Syrah to find out. This big red, when first opened and tasted, is an agreeable wine, with blackberry, a little white pepper spice and a juicy finish. Just lovely after work or with hamburgers. But as the Box Car opens up, you discover the berry has defined itself, and morphed into dark plum and boysenberry. And that spice has a minty edge to it. The aromas have kicked in, with violet and sweet tobacco dominating. Some earthy notes and smooth tannins have fought to the surface. What a complex wine. What depth.Now drink this wine with beef stew, braised short ribs, spicy beef stir-fry and grilled venison (’tis the season for that last dish). At $21, the Box Car Syrah is also great with a New York Strip with spicy pepper rub, and your meal budget won’t be broken. Winemaker and co-founder Carroll Kemp ages the Box Car Syrah in French oak barrels, 25 percent of them new, for 10 months. He then bottles the wine unfined and unfiltered, taking no chance of stripping the layers of flavors in the wine. Carroll and Mark Estrin, both Hollywood veterans, started the Red Car Wine Company in 2000. Jarrett Osborn in the wine buyer for Riverwalk Wine & Spirits in Edwards.