At Beaver Creek’s Hooked, ‘more fish in the fish’

Dominique Taylor/EAT Magazine
A fresh seafood restaurant in the middle of the Rocky Mountains might seem like a fish out of water, but at Hooked in Beaver Creek, they skip the middle man and get their fish fresh from their partners working out on the ocean waters — delivered within 24 hours of being pulled from the ocean and flown to Denver International Airport, where they make the 200-mile round-trip drive for pickup twice per week.
But the dedication to quality fish is paying off for Seafood Manager Jan “Yasko” Markot and Owner Riley Romanin, who teamed up this summer and spent months perfecting the art of dry-aging fish. The long, difficult — but fun — process requires the freshest fish — no problem for Hooked — and a climate-and temperature-controlled dry-aging system, something not many restaurants have. Plus, the knowledge that Markot has developed over 10 years in the sushi industry.
“Sushi’s not about adding flavors, it’s more about extracting the cleanness and best flavor and texture of the fish so you are actually tasting the best product,” Markot said.
The dry-aging process starts with cleaning fresh fish. Markot awaits the deliveries twice per week, and immediately starts in on them, using a specialized Japanese knife, tweezers, a high-pressure water cleaner and copious amounts of attention to detail and precision. This way the fish is pristine, smooth and no bacteria can grow while in the dry-aging process.
“Sushi’s not about adding flavors, it’s more about extracting the cleanness and best flavor and texture of the fish so you are actually tasting the best product.” Jan “Yasko” Markot, Seafood Manager at Hooked
Then, the fish go into the dry-aging system — a clear case for all to see, hanging above the sushi-rolling area. Usually they’ll stay there for three days, with the humidity and temperature set to perfection, depending on the type of fish, weight, etc.

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Sounds like a lot of work, right? It is, but Markot loves every second of it. His face looking up at his dry-aging system is like a kid looking up at their first Christmas tree, full of pride, wonder and excitement for what’s to come.
“It’s still fun because we are getting fish directly from Japan, and we’re getting different species, so we get a lot of varieties that we can play with,” Markot said. “Do I keep it for four days? Do I keep it for three days? Or do I come in at 1 a.m. and take it out?”
The result: A super clean flavor with no “chewy” parts.

The best way to explain the science behind it is to imagine a fish that’s 60% protein, 20% fat and 20% water. When you dry-age that fish, you remove a lot of the water, so you’re getting “more fish in the fish” — more protein and more fat.
“We’re trying to achieve the best flavor of each fish,” Markot explained. “I just try to make everything perfect, and this restaurant is focused on making experiences. And I get to be a part of one of the most important parts of this experience. So when I get to do this, yeah, I’m going to be smiling all day.”
Like their other fresh fish available, servers present the whole fish at the table. It’s up to you how you’d like it prepared, but they’ll always have recommendations, usually taking half for sashimi and sushi and the other half for some type of cooked preparation.

If you want to just try the dry-aged fish, consider the comparison platter. But be warned, it comes with a guarantee that you will love both, but you’ll love the dry-aged better.
“Just come in and see for yourself,” Markot said. “I’m ready to make some fish.”
In addition to regular lunch and dinner service, après in style with Hooked on Fridays and Saturdays, with caviar and champagne served out on their patio — along with an ice bar, DJ, fire pits and lounge area.
What: Hooked
Where: 122 The Plaza
Beaver Creek
More info: 970-949-4321; HookedBC.com
Price: Appetizers $8.50-$30, includes shareables;
Entrees $20-Market Price
Ambiance: A seafood experience like no other
Signature Dish: Dry-aged fish
