Fresh new look, same solid menu at Marko’s in Edwards
Things look different at Marko’s. Freshly painted walls, bricked counter and walls, new art. Cleaner, more contemporary and slightly dramatic. But despite the massive facelift the locals joint recently received, it’s still the same classic pizza and pasta restaurant, buzzing with regulars starting with lunch and straight through until dinner. And proprietor Mark Esteppe is usually in the middle of it all, working the register, introducing people to one another or simply shooting the breeze. He’s been there for 28 years, and over the years, the formula hasn’t changed much: fresh ingredients, dough made daily, house-made sauces and dressings, and plenty of libations. It’s a winning combination.
Esteppe claims the best Caesar salad around, the dressing zippy with a touch of anchovy and a little hot sauce. Those who want a more substantial starter can go for a famous Marko’s Meatball or Juan’s Spicy Shrimp — but it’s hard to beat the buttery garlic knots.
Hot subs, calzones and pastas are in ample supply, but the pizza remains the number-one favorite. Though the house dough is a chewy delight, there’s a gluten-free option too. The menu includes some original combinations and names, it’s hard to beat the decadent, loaded supreme with pepperoni, sausage, Canadian bacon, mushrooms, onion, green pepper, black olives and mozzarella.
“It’s the best pizza in this town,” Esteppe said. “Best crust, best staff. Members of our kitchen staff have been here 20 years, 11 years, 8 years. We keep it in the family.”
He’s got a point with the crust — just chewy enough and nicely browned on the bottom. It makes a great foil for the inventive pizzas. The Moontime Pie is named for the owner of Moontime Cyclery, who always ordered a basic margherita jazzed up with feta and sausage in addition to the classic tomato and basil. The Sweet Border includes pepperoni, pineapple, jalapeño, cilantro and mozzarella — some like to sub out the classic sauce for barbecue.
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“It’s really not just the food, it’s the atmosphere, the welcoming invitation that we’re all a family,” Esteppe said.
The family-friendly restaurant welcomes soccer teams, and has become a beacon for those who want to eat later as they serve until 10 p.m. daily. With plenty of beer on tap and in bottles, plus a menu that’s full of Italian wines, it’s an easy place to stop and stay for a while. It’s a winning combination. And so is the brand new look.
57 Edwards Access road #7
Starters: $4.99 and up
Pasta: $12.99 and up
Pizza $9.99 and up
Local, family-style pizzeria
Pizza and pasta