Fine dining meets comfort food at Grouse Mountain Grill

There is no casual drive-by of Grouse Mountain Grill. If you show up at the New American restaurant nestled in the Pines Lodge in Beaver Creek, you almost certainly mean to be there. And if so, good for you. Specializing in New American cuisine with an emphasis on both Colorado ingredients and Executive Chef Frank Blea’s culinary influences, the restaurant delivers the holy trinity of a good meal out: excellent food, personable staff and a comfortable dining room — with a view, no less.

Dan and Doris Schoenfelder met more than 40 years ago in Southern Colorado when they were both working at a restaurant Dan’s uncle owned. They discovered a knack for the industry, and have been involved in hospitality — and with each other — ever since. Looking for a change from Colorado Springs, they took the opportunity to come to Beaver Creek seven years ago and, along with a partner, bought Grouse Mountain Grill from the original owners, Dave and Nancy Dowell. Earlier this year, the Schoenfelders bought out their partner and now look forward to forging ahead with Grouse in a way that honors the restaurant’s roots and history, while embracing and empowering Chef Blea’s spirit of culinary adventure.

It all starts at the host stand, where one of the Schoenfelders is inevitably standing, waiting to warmly welcome in guests.

“I love being in Beaver Creek because of the kindness of the guests,” Doris said. “We get the nicest people. We do have so many return guests, we are really part of their family tradition.”

“People come in, whether it’s a new guest or someone who’s been coming in for years, and we want to give them the whole experience,” Dan added. “I think people don’t really know what to expect sometimes — and they’re blown away. The room is beautiful, the views are beautiful, and that starts the whole experience.”

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In the dining room, a fire dances on one side, while windows offer up extensive views of Beaver Creek Village. It’s a safe little haven, with friendly servers tending to tables and the low murmur of conversations. Rachael Zehms has been a server at Grouse for 12 years, and brings a deep understanding of wines and wine pairings to her guests. She has an intuitive sense for the flow of a good meal, serving with a sense of vocation and education that goes beyond job description.

“The service at Grouse Mountain Grill is a professional, fine-dining style with a sense of comfort,” she explained. “I’ve stayed working here for so long because I really enjoy the clientele that dines with us. They are very relaxed and kind. I take care of so many regular guests — many of them feel like extended family.”

Pastry Chef Jessica Anderson is back, her menu of in-house breads and pastries dovetailing nicely with Chef Blea’s culinary options. The joy of the breadbasket cannot be overstated, whether its slabs of freshly baked bread, focaccia or dinner rolls. But be careful not to fill up, as there are several don’t-miss appetizers. The scallop tartare is a magical dish, with a simple list of ingredients put together with incredible sophistication and precision. Japanese Hokkaido scallops are diced and dusted with olive oil, served with an herbed crème fraiche and brioche toast points. In some sort of kitchen alchemy, the delicate scallops seem to melt in the mouth while the crème fraiche keeps its structure. Adding in savory pops from the occasional caviar burst, you’ll want to share this one with the table so everyone can ooh and aah together.

“I love seafood,” admitted the chef, who grew up in Southern California and brings both Asian and Latin influences to his menu.

The baba ghanoush, from the snack portion of the menu, is downright luxurious, served with fresh pita and a generous crescent of Marcona-based dukkah, a terrific, crunchy foil for the smooth dip. Over the summer, Chef Blea’s pork belly appetizer with kimchi was a staff favorite, and his corn soup, created with Mexican elotes flavors in mind, might become a Grouse signature dish.

“I like feeling good after eating, versus needing to take a nap,” said the chef, smiling.

For certain people, Grouse Mountain Grill is synonymous with a pretzel-crusted pork chop. Chef Blea’s latest menu includes several bold dishes with a variety of mountain-friendly flavors: a hearty lamb osso bucco, a decadent lobster Bolognese with basil foam, Scottish salmon in an intensely umami-forward broth. The dry-aged duck is a standout, served two ways, bringing a baseline of deep duck flavor brightened by sweet beets that are somewhere between a sauce and a puree. Hints of orange offer a great accent.

Finish with one of Chef Anderson’s house-churned ice creams, apple custard tart or the fan favorite donut trifecta. It is a sweet and playful end to a lovely meal.

“You have these guests who bring their families here, they’ve grown up going here and they come back time after time after time,” Dan said. “We want to give them the whole experience — and I think we nail it. It’s not just the food, it’s the whole package.”